32nd Issue: The Story of Março That Spans from the Olive Saplings Planted by His Ancestors to Today

We spoke with Food Engineer İnci Özer and her son Egemen Yıldırım, who studied architecture, about the journey of "Março," the natural olive oil they branded, and their participation in the 14th National Extra Virgin Olive Oil Quality Awards organized by the Olive Lovers Association.

Can you introduce yourself?
I am the daughter of a farming family from Söke Bağarası. I studied Food Engineering at Ege University. After working in the food industry for many years, I returned to farming, a profession also practiced by my family. With the added benefit of my experience in the food sector, I began to specialize in olive cultivation. Since 2019, I have been intensely working to further develop my skills in olive cultivation and olive oil production. Together with my son, Egemen Yıldırım, we have taken numerous courses in olive cultivation. Being closely connected with nature, the care involved in olive farming and the production of high-quality olive oil quickly became our passion.

When did you become interested in olive cultivation?
Being born on these lands where olive oil is produced and consumed was a great advantage for me, just like every citizen of Aydın. In my childhood memories, activities related to olive harvesting and processing are vividly present, as if ready to reappear at any moment. As children, my friends and I would play house in my great-grandfather’s home, which was no longer inhabited. There were three large storage jars in the cool basement—these were the tanks where the year's olive oil was stored. When we had any pain, our neighbor would rub olive oil on us. These memories lay dormant in my mind, waiting for years to ignite my love for olives. It wasn't until I watched an olive festival on an environmental program in December 2018 that this passion flared up, and that very night I decided to go into olive farming.

Can you share the journey of Março Olive with us?
2019 was an off-year for our grove due to periodicity, so we had only a small harvest. It was also the year when my passion for olives blossomed, and as a beginner, I immersed myself in learning. I started by going to the Olive Research Institute, getting their books on olive cultivation and olive oil production. Then, I attended olive cultivation and pruning courses offered by the Izmir Chamber of Agricultural Engineers to learn olive farming. Producing healthy olives is essential, but it's equally important to follow the correct practices when extracting olive oil. My son Egemen and I attended several training sessions, including the Olive Machine Operation course by the Izmir Commodity Exchange, the Basic Sensory Tasting of Extra Virgin Olive Oil by the National Olive and Olive Oil Council, and olive cultivation, olive oil production, and sensory tasting training by the Aydın Commodity Exchange. The analysis results from our first harvest in 2019, along with the encouragement of experienced sensory tasters, motivated us greatly. This marked the beginning of our branding journey.

We pay close attention to applying what we've learned both in the agricultural production stages and in the olive oil production stages. By focusing on biodiversity, we practice eco-friendly farming in our grove. For example, as you may know, farmers usually burn the branches left after pruning. Instead, we grind these branches and spread them under the tree canopies. This process is costly, but in the long run, it will increase the organic matter in the soil, the soil’s water retention capacity, and the number of microorganisms. By producing high-quality olives, we aim to obtain high-quality olive oil.

One of our biggest advantages in this process is that we have Memecik olive trees. In recent years, Memecik olive oils have shown a rapid rise in international competitions. Therefore, we believe that producing this valuable product using the cold-press technique, which transfers beneficial compounds from the olive fruit into the oil, will add value and offer a significant advantage for local producers.

Março Olive won a Silver Medal for Aydın at the 14th National Extra Virgin Olive Oil Quality Awards. How did you prepare for this competition?
Rather than specifically preparing for a competition, we continued working with the goal of achieving a quality product and producing the best olive oil. Our primary aim was to grow olives and produce quality olive oil without harming nature or over-intervening. Based on the positive feedback from the tasters around us, we wanted to test our oil on a competition platform as well. We see the Silver Medal as a result of our efforts and hard work.

As I mentioned earlier, one of our biggest advantages is having Memecik olive trees. These trees grow in mountainous and rugged areas on steep slopes. They have adapted well to the limited rainfall in the region and don’t require much water, which contributes to the development of a wide root system that helps transfer essential nutrients from the soil to the olives.

What processes does olive oil go through before reaching our tables? What should we pay attention to when consuming olive oil?
One of the most important factors that determine the quality and quantity of olive oil is the timing of the harvest and how it is conducted. Harvesting should be done in a way that does not damage the olives or the young shoots on the trees. It’s essential to schedule a time with the pressing facility in advance so that the harvested olives can be processed without delay. Olive oil is obtained by mechanically crushing and pressing the olives, which is why it is considered a fruit juice. The oil is then stored in tanks, and the entire process must be managed correctly to produce a quality product.

When consuming olive oil, pay attention to its smell and taste. Good olive oil should transport you to an olive grove when you smell it—you should sense the aroma of Aegean herbs and the scent of a freshly picked olive. When you taste it, you should feel bitterness on your tongue and a slight spiciness in your throat. It’s important to choose oils pressed in facilities with a valid registration number, and they should be packaged in dark glass bottles or tins. At home, store olive oil in a cool, dark, odor-free place. We sometimes hear that people store it under the sink, but this is not the correct storage spot.

What steps have you taken toward branding? Can you share the process of applying to use the geographical indication logo for Aydın Memecik Olives from the Aydın Commodity Exchange? What was the process like, and what were the results?
We registered the name "Março" as a trademark. I was thrilled when I read in the newspaper that the Aydın Commodity Exchange had received the geographical indication for Aydın Memecik Olive Oil. After producing our olive oil, we applied to the Aydın Commodity Exchange. In addition to the quality analysis, the genetic map of our oils was also examined in the AYTB Aydın Laboratories. Shortly after, we completed the necessary procedures and received approval to use the geographical indication logo. We signed a contract and started using the geographical indication logo on the oils we produce.

Do you have any final thoughts to share?
I believe Aydın Memecik Olive Oil has not yet received the recognition it deserves or reached sufficient awareness. We all have a role to play in this. The support of the Aydın Commodity Exchange is crucial for promoting Aydın Memecik Olive Oil. In our province, there are many small producers who make high-quality cold-pressed oil, as well as larger producers. By establishing a working council that includes olive oil producers, businesspeople, industrialists, and academics, we could create a strategy map and bring our product to the forefront.

I would like to thank the Balatçık Agricultural Development Cooperative where we press our olives, our customers who show interest in our products, and the founder of the National Olive Oil Council who has always supported me.

Olive oil, referred to as liquid gold, positively impacts our health in many ways throughout our lives, from childhood to old age. Olive oil is a miracle nature has bestowed upon humanity.