Issue 34: The Story of the Olive and Olive Oil Museum

Women who are involved in production in every aspect of life are embarking on very successful initiatives. These women, who approach the environment, society, and their employees with care, become a source of hope for future generations. One of those stories is that of Gürsel Tonbul, who established a farm and an olive and olive oil museum in Davutlar Village, Kuşadası. We also heard the story of Gürsel Tonbul, one of the pioneers of organic agriculture in our country, directly from her.

Hello, Ms. Gürsel. Before we listen to the journey of your farm, which is the first in our country to engage in ecological production, could we get to know you first?

I was born on September 20, 1954, in Antalya. I completed my primary education in Antalya and graduated from Gazi Education Institute’s English department in 1974. After getting married, I settled in Kuşadası and worked as an English teacher at Kuşadası Kaya Aldoğan High School. Later, I took on an active managerial role in our family business, which operates in the tourism and hospitality sector. My maternal side is made up of immigrants. My grandmother came from Sarajevo, while my grandfather came from Montenegro. They first settled in İzmir and then moved to Antalya. My grandfather was one of the leading agriculturalists of his time. In fact, he was one of the founders of the Bornova Research Institute. My paternal grandfather, a forest officer from the Akseki Yörük tribe, and my grandmother, a woman from a well-established Yörük family, lived there because my grandfather was assigned to establish the Citrus Research Institute in Antalya. He also established a citrus orchard and engaged in livestock farming. Due to my father's job, we had to move frequently. To avoid affecting my education negatively due to changing schools, my family left me with my grandmother and grandfather for a while. During this process, I learned a lot from them. I was always close to the soil, agriculture, and animals during the time I spent with them. I collected beautiful memories of plant, animal, and human friendship and drew inspiration from their teachings. My husband similarly spent all his summer vacations with his grandparents in the vineyards and gardens. We can say they were our guides. It was our primary duty to preserve the greatest legacy they left us. After our children were born and we began to grow our businesses, we purchased land with what we had earned. At first, we had two cows, one chicken, our lambs, and our dog. In the spare time we had from our work, we took the first steps of our journey to spend quality time with our family and produce things, consuming what we produced.

I refer to the negative effects of tourism in this situation. In a time when agricultural lands in Kuşadası were sold for next to nothing, we invested part of the money we earned in tourism and used the other part to buy land. Of course, this process began to get expensive. When you start eating a watermelon that costs the same as a trailer, you begin to question the work you’re doing.

In one of your statements, you mentioned that life is justly sustainable and that the closest alternative to human, plant, and animal friendship is the agricultural model. What experiences did you have after deciding to turn to agriculture? How did your family and close ones react to your decision?

As a tourism travel agency, we had a lot of overseas trips. Due to both my motherhood and the intensity of my work being in Kuşadası, the family council suggested that I get involved with the land. We were truly educated as teachers in the Education Institute. We had skills in planning, programming, learning, and teaching. We studied psychology, sociology, and pedagogy. I relied on my education in planning and methodology, believing that I could manage the corporate farm by keeping records, extracting statistics from those records, and relying on my knowledge of assessment.

The first two years were spent identifying the loss thresholds. During that time, I often thought of what our elders did, questioning why they wouldn’t do it that way. I learned a lot from them. When we made mistakes, I asked myself, “How would they have done it?” and “Where are we going wrong?”

On one of my overseas trips, a sign caught my attention. It had a picture of an apple and a pear, with a worm’s head poking out, and the phrase, “If I can live inside, I am not harmful to you.” After noticing that sign, I entered the shop and discovered ecological agriculture. Your mind captures what your eyes are searching for. It matures the thought you need, and while you're searching for it, your eyes somehow retain it in memory. As a result, your ideas come to light.

After returning from that trip, I made a radical decision and rolled up my sleeves to transition to organic agriculture on the land. All agricultural chemicals in the operation were thrown away. I faced great resistance. Everyone, including the employees, family, and even my husband, opposed this change because you were suddenly overturning the soil. But I was determined, and despite the challenges, I was going to overcome this.

What experiences did you have during your transition to organic agriculture?

At that time, hardly anything was known about organic agriculture in our country. Only a few foreign companies were conducting contract farming in Turkey. They obtained all kinds of information regarding seeds, seedlings, or plant protection from their home countries. They informed the producers. Since there was no organic agriculture law at the time, it was managed through a series of regulations.

In organic agriculture, you cannot swim against the current. Nature sets the rules. For example, you cannot plant peaches in a land unsuitable for peach orchards. But if it has already been planted, the incompatibilities became even more pronounced with the transition to organic agriculture. When there is a planting prohibition, and fertilization and pest control are not carried out, you may incur losses when you work the soil according to organic farming guidelines. We experienced significant losses in the first five years. However, these losses brought us transformation. As a result, the relationship between plants, soil, and water was balanced. I had decided to start this journey in 1997. But first, I wanted to see what I could achieve, so I had not applied for certification. There is a three-year legal process for the transition to organic farming. In 2000, we applied to a company to engage in organic agriculture. The company said that we could quickly transition through the process we were experiencing and obtain our certification. And so it was. Starting from 2001, we obtained our organic agriculture certification and began our journey in organic farming, which we still continue today.

Can you tell us about the activities of the farm?

In 1995, I established the Mill along with the farm operation. During my overseas travels, I saw agricultural tourism backed by production and was very impressed; I believed that the heart of this business beats there. Therefore, if I was to grow and develop the farm operation using an organic farming model, it had to have an outward-facing aspect. With this in mind, we activated the mill operations.

We opened our production facility to create added value for the fresh fruits and vegetables grown on our farm. In our factory, which is certified organic, has production permits, and most importantly, uses traditional production methods, we only introduce our value-added products to consumers through the women of the farm. One of the fundamental philosophies of organic farming is that no renewable part of the soil given to us is waste. For example, consider tomatoes. Imagine trying to sell them solely as tomatoes. The ripest and tastiest tomatoes often go to waste because they can’t be sent to the market in boxes. A tomato at the peak of flavor may be bright red, not overripe, and delicious, but if it's misshapen or slightly soft, you can’t put it in a box and send it to market. We began our tomato adventure by making tomato paste, and today we have added nearly 30 different tomato products. Currently, we have over 300 value-added products under the brand name "Yerlim."

Can you tell us about the "Oleatrium Olive and Olive Oil Museum," which enchants its visitors and takes them on a journey through history? How did the idea for the museum come about?

The idea for the museum came from my husband, Hasan Tonbul. He is an incredible olive enthusiast. After graduating from the Education Institute, he also attended national guidance courses. He obtained a National Guiding Certificate and established his agency, entering the tourism sector. He traveled extensively throughout Anatolia. During his travels, he was captivated by even the smallest details and materials related to the olive and olive oil culture in Anatolia. From the beginning, he started collecting anything that came out of the scrap from olive oil pressing systems, leveraging the connections he made in the places he visited. When I asked him what would become of these items, he said they would be for a museum. Of course, these collections accumulated over the years. It is very challenging to not only collect but also preserve them. In 2007, I said we should build the museum if we were going to do it. Especially preserving wooden materials is quite difficult. After making the decision, we first established a scenario. Then an architectural project suitable for that scenario was drawn. Construction began, and the museum opened in 2009. This museum was entirely my husband’s dream. Once you reach a certain career level or grow your business to a certain economic scale, society expects you to contribute something for the benefit of the community. Some people build schools, others hospitals, and some mosques. We wanted to undertake the social responsibility of creating a museum. Therefore, the museum was established in respect of olive culture and heritage.

We have created a 2,500-year time tunnel in the museum. A large portion of the hundreds of olive oil production tools, including an example from Klazomenai, which is located in Urla, is exhibited in the museum. This tool dates back to the Ionian period, around 600 BC. Upon entering, we step into the 2,500-year tunnel. We start from 600 BC and conclude at the beginning of the 20th century AD. At Oleatrium, you enter a time tunnel composed of 11 sections. The first is a workshop model from the Archaic Period, originally displayed in Urla/Klazomenai. Next, we have the Foot Oil Hall, referred to as the Transitional Period, and then move to the Lighting Section, followed by the Roman Period, where we continue with the Roman Bath and Soap Production Section. After the Early Byzantine Period, we proceed to a collective presentation area showcasing various presses and clamps. Following the Late Byzantine/Early Ottoman Period, we enter the Early Industrial Period, featuring steam and diesel machines, and then the Electric Period, which displays traditional stone press water systems. Olive and grape have both thrived in every geography where they are cultivated. The olive oil obtained from olives, vinegar, molasses, raisins, and wine produced from grapes have been among humanity’s most basic food sources for thousands of years. For this reason, we dedicated the end of the time tunnel to grapes, which have the same pressing and squeezing systems as olives. As a result, a museum that we leave as a legacy to the future has emerged.

Can we call this a practical training field?

Our museum appeals to audiences of all ages. Before the pandemic, we held workshops. Elementary school students visiting the museum would crush olives and extract olive oil. We also created an exhibition from the drawings they made.

High school and university students generally visited as day groups. At the end of their visit, we would gather with them and share our story.

Now, however, we have a project for an agricultural academy. For practical tours like these, it is essential that people's schedules are suitable. It also requires a financial expenditure. Therefore, we have planned online training sessions. This way, since the training will be continuous, it will be more efficient. Additionally, there is a school program organized by the İzmir Metropolitan Municipality. I believe these projects will be very beneficial.

If we talk about the challenges faced in agriculture, what would you like to say? What advice would you give to female entrepreneurs who want to turn to agriculture?

Agriculture is a male-dominated field in our country. There are women workers, but the dominant force is seen among men. This continues not only in the production side but also in the marketing aspect of the job. However, this has started to change recently. I have experienced this difficulty as well. As a woman, you must go through serious trials to be heard. You need to be confident in what you're doing to show results to the other party. Because they have a truth they believe in, and they do not want to give it up. Of course, over time, this perception has changed. As you see the added value resulting from your perseverance and knowledge, respect for you increases. Therefore, it is crucial for female entrepreneurs who want to enter agriculture to plan their work in advance. They need to know the history and geography of the land very well. They should blend the ancient knowledge of the past with current information and data illuminated by science. Our society's consumption habits are changing every day. For this reason, it is essential to follow the consumption habits of the new generation and create value-added products that reflect the brand you are going to produce.

There are many women entrepreneurs turning to agriculture, and each has a unique story and names they draw inspiration from. Was there a name that inspired you on this journey?

The source of inspiration for my story primarily comes from my grandfather and grandmother. My grandfather was only 21 years old when he had to leave his country and escape. He had only two options: to go to America or to settle in the newly established Republic of Turkey. My grandfather, with admiration for Atatürk, thought he could build a new life in the Republic of Turkey established by this genius leader, so he chose to settle in Turkey. There was a photo of Atatürk hanging by his bedside. In his hardest and most hopeless times, he would always look at it. He also left me this legacy: “You will always have a picture of Atatürk by your bedside, and whenever you feel hopeless, you will look at that photo and say, ‘I will continue to work for you.’” That is why my fundamental source of inspiration is Atatürk and his reforms. It is the belief that, even under the toughest conditions, there is no impossibility if you continue to fight by not giving up on production.

Is there anything else you would like to add?

The importance of agriculture and food was once again understood, especially during the pandemic and the Ukraine-Russia War. The most basic necessity we have is food. However, unfortunately, the new generation is not enthusiastic about or values farming. In the past, farming was a highly esteemed profession. I hope that with the support provided to producers, the new generation will come to understand that farming is a respectable job and that the value lost by agriculture can be regained. Thus, the farmer can pass on both their ancient knowledge and their land to the new generation, which will help ensure that they take ownership of the legacy left to them.